More than a decade after Whitehorse entered the big-box era, it’s great to see a few of the unsung heroes of the local grocery trade getting some love, with recent attention in the media that highlights the joys of shopping at Riverside Grocery Store, the Deli, and Candy’s Fruit Stand.
Groceries come in Technicolor at Bigway Foods in Copper Ridge PHOTO: Marianne Darragh
Recently I added Bigway Foods in Copper Ridge to my route when stalking a pound of butter and litre of milk that doesn’t expire tomorrow — items that have been mysteriously elusive downtown lately.
On visits to Vancouver and Toronto, my idea of sightseeing is gawking wistfully at the bounty of the small grocery stores, with their careful displays and sometimes-eccentric offerings, customized for the surrounding neighbourhood. Whitehorse stores have usually been well-stocked enough for me, but I’ve taken for granted the absence of niceties like visually appealing presentation, and even, well, cleanliness, in the mainstream supermarkets.
We seem willing to have our smiles turned upside down by the time we reach the exit, if we think we’re saving a few dollars.
The first time I entered Bigway Foods I gasped — definitely not my normal reaction. Coming in from a grey day, my eyes were dazzled by the bright blocks of colour from cereal boxes on shelves to the right and meticulous rows of oranges, apples, and greens to the left.
Familiarity with the store has increased my appreciation for the high standards they maintain. I haven’t yet found a neglected display or fruit or vegetable past its prime. Goods are lined up as scrupulously on the shelves as Carson the butler of Downton Abbey sets the dinner tables — and Carson uses a ruler to check for alignment.
You might not be able to stock up with months of supplies at Bigway, but it offers a reasonable variety of goods and something extra, such as organic and gluten-free products, Yukon-grown produce, and a whimsical selection of hot sauce.
As for cost, it’s generally understood that small outlets are pricier than the big box stores, but that’s not true for everything. I was surprised to find out butter and milk cost the same at Bigway as downtown, and in season, fruit was usually similar in price to Candy’s Fruit Stand and Extra Foods
As for other items: if something costs 80 cents more at another store, but is never available, savings are a moot point.
But mostly I like Bigway for the same reason I like Riverside Groceries, the Deli, Mac’s Fireweed Books, Midnight Sun Coffee Roasters, the Chocolate Claim, and a host of other small but mighty stores that ride the waves of the Yukon’s economy; some industrious elf seems to love the grocery business, and that’s what keeps it ticking like a Swiss watch. I don’t know what that does for the bottom line, but it creates a pleasing atmosphere.
Also, sometimes when they wash the floor, it smells like real lemons.