When Gatherers Become Gardeners

Despite what my bio for this column says, I’m really not much of a gardener. For me the Yukon summer has always been the time for travel, for river expeditions or multi-day alpine hikes, not for growing herbs or vegetables.

Whenever I stared guiltily at the weed-filled raised boxes in our yard my husband would say, “Don’t worry, we’re gatherers, not gardeners,” and I’d sigh with relief. Another summer of adventure!

All of that changed in the summer of 2021. Battered and bewildered by the uncertainties of the pandemic, we didn’t have the energy to plan a long wilderness trip, and travel out of the territory

This delicious offering is perfect for a mid-sized gathering and can serve up to 10 people.

was not appealing.

Our summer became one of car camping in Yukon campgrounds—revisiting old favourites, exploring new ones. We ran into friends, we took guided nature walks, we busted our butts on day hikes and paddled dreamily on small lakes and slow rivers. We were never away for more than five days at a time.

Suddenly, our schedule was such that we could garden. In late June, when we realized this, we scrambled to find seed potatoes and managed to scrounge a few from a friend. From the nearly empty greenhouses at Canadian Tire we bought two big pots of mixed kale and three bunches of celery. We planted it all in our newly weeded raised boxes. A neighbour helped with watering when we were away.

The garden was a revelation. We enjoyed kale Caesar salad all summer long. Celery leaves flavoured soups, sauces and salads. Now, the freezer is bursting with bags of kale, washed, chopped and frozen. And the greatest glory: in September we harvested 80 pounds of beautiful Yukon Gold potatoes.

It’s early February, and we’re still eating those potatoes–baked, fried, mashed, and boiled; we’re eating kale in salads, stir-fries and casseroles. We are so pleased with ourselves!

Wild food gathering is still my number one passion; that won’t change. But I’m already getting excited about next summer. There will be adventures. And there will be gardening.

Mid-winter Potato, Kale and Cheddar Pie
Yield: 8

Mid-winter Potato, Kale and Cheddar Pie

A hearty, cheesy, main course that only needs a side salad for a complete, satisfying mid-winter meal.

Ingredients

Filling

  • 1 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 6 oz kale (about 8 cups, packed) any variety, fresh or frozen (thawed if frozen), roughly chopped
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp pepper
  • 8 oz old cheddar cheese, grated

Potatoes and Topping

  • 2 1/2 lbs potatoes—russet or Yukon Gold
  • 1 Tbsp kosher salt (for cooking potatoes)
  • 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided
  • 1/2 cup 35% cream
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 2 oz Parmesan cheese, grated
  • 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp pepper
  • 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
  • 1/2 cup panko or coarse breadcrumbs, divided

Instructions

  1. Make the filling: heat oil over medium heat in a medium frying pan. Add onion and cook until translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
  2. Add garlic and cook for 2 minutes, followed by chopped kale. Cook until kale has wilted and moisture has evaporated, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat to cool.
  3. Prepare the pie: Peel the potatoes and chop them into eighths, wash them, place in a large pot and cover with water. Add salt, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, from 15 to 20 minutes.
  4. Drain potatoes and return them to the heat for 2 minutes to dry out, shaking the pot periodically. Turn off heat. Add 2 Tbsp butter to the pot and mash potatoes until no lumps remain. Stir in the cream, eggs, Parmesan, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and beat thoroughly with a fork.
  5. Assembly: Preheat oven to 400F. Grease a 9-inch spring form pan with 1 Tbsp butter, then sprinkle evenly with 1/4 cup breadcrumbs.
  6. Spread half the mashed potatoes evenly in the bottom of the pan. Top with half the grated cheddar, then the kale, then the remaining cheddar. Spread the remaining potatoes over top, and smooth with the back of a spoon.
  7. Sprinkle the remaining breadcrumbs over the surface and dot with the final 1 Tbsp of butter.
  8. Bake for about 45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the centre is hot—test by inserting a knife in the centre and touching the knife to your finger.
  9. Cool for 5 minutes, then run a knife around the edge and remove the rim. Cut into wedges and serve. 

Notes

Adapted from Fine Cooking, October/November 2019

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