Inuvik

The Road Less Travelled: The Dempster Part 2

When a Canada 150 project resulted in a road linking Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk, the shores of the Arctic Ocean were newly accessible. So too, then, were my plans to drive the length of the Dempster Highway.

The Road Less Travelled: The Dempster Part 1

As the Alaska Highway became more accessible and faded from myth and legend, The Dempster Highway, for me and many others, became the new Holy Grail. It enticed us with the promise of adventure, of unseen vistas.

Ice road woes (and whoas)

I was driving back to Red Deer from Calgary the other day and got a speeding ticket in a blinding snowstorm. The cop told me there is a law in Alberta that states that speed limits are reduced to 80 km/h when winds exceed 70 km/h. I told him, in no uncertain terms, that I’d …

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Read the land

As long as I remember, I’ve travelled throughout the Mackenzie Delta and Beaufort Coast with my dad. We travelled all over during different seasons hunting or trapping different animals.

Deals with the Anaatquuq

As a musician, you put yourself out there in the public and you have to be ready to appease your fans. That means answering questions after the show. The most common question I get is, “How long have you been playing?” Well, I’m here to tell you, I don’t know. It seems music has always …

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Chain of demand

I arrived in Inuvik for the first time in early July 1972. What first struck me as I toured the town was A) the 24 hours of sunlight and B) how closed off the town felt without a highway. It felt like even more of a no man’s land when I looked at it from …

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A Tuk load of memories

I was back home in Inuvik this summer and I took the opportunity to drive to Tuk for the first time. It always hits close to the bone whenever I am there.   The first time I went to Tuk, I was 12 years old. We were whaling at East Whitefish Station at the mouth of …

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No blues for this bootlegger

One afternoon, in the mid-70s in Inuvik, I was looking for some oddball thing for my vehicle. I looked almost everywhere and then I decided to go see John, a local who owned one of the taxi companies. I can’t remember if he helped me out or not, but I remember I stayed for awhile …

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To ‘Looks Like a Caribou’ and back – Part 6 of 6

Driving to Tuktoyaktuk, N.W.T. (located on Kugmallit Bay of the Beaufort Sea of the Arctic Ocean), is no big deal. Canadians have been doing it for many years on the annual winter ice roads that used to run down the Mackenzie Delta, from Inuvik, to the frozen open ocean. Indeed, my three grandchildren, aged six, …

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Third Time’s the Charm

My friend, Lucy (not her real name – she asked me to call her that), is no stranger to adventure. The daring Ontario expat, who has called the Yukon home for the last decade, has twice answered the call to cycle the Dempster Highway – a rugged expanse of terrain stretching from Dawson City to …

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