I don’t believe I’ve ever seen so many berry pickers as this year in the White Pass near Fraser, B.C., southern Yukon’s favourite place to find blueberries. The pandemic was driving us out into the stunning moonscape of small lakes, rock, balsam fir, lichen, alder and dwarf birch from Log Cabin to Summit Creek in search of an outing and of berries, whether we call them blueberries, huckleberries or bilberries (the vernacular is so confusing!).
Some grow high (Vaccinium ovafolium) and some grow low (Vaccinium uliganosum, Vaccinium caespitosum), most require twisting the body into pretzel shapes, balancing on tree roots and dancing amongst boulders in order to get to the plants. This was an activity I found absolutely crazy the first time I went, brought by new friends the year I arrived in Whitehorse. “Why would you even do this for a yogurt container of berries?” was my attitude then, perched with one foot on a rock and the other in a hard place.
Now I can’t imagine not going on this annual pilgrimage, even if I already have berries in the freezer. It’s a seasonal touchstone, a way of connecting to the annual round of foraging, of re-grounding oneself in the landscape. I remember every spot and who I went with, what the weather was like, how much we harvested, what we ate for our snack, which dogs were with us, whether we saw a bear. (For me, never, just lots of blue poop. The dogs’ poop is often blue the next day too.) A compote—whole fruit simmered in a syrup — is halfway between a jam and a preserve; a Dutch Baby is halfway between an omelette and a pancake. Both are all-the-way delicious, ideal for a fall brunch. The Dutch baby will deflate as soon as you remove it from the oven, but don’t worry. You are left with a concoction with a crispy bottom and a soft interior, covered in caramelized melted cheese.
When I put the bags of cleaned berries away in the freezer, I write the date and the place they were from. And so the memory is cooked right into the berries.
Camembert Dutch Baby Pancake with Blueberry Compote
Ingredients
Instructions
Blueberry Compote
Makes about 2 cups.Camembert Dutch Baby
(Remember the pan is really hot. Put an oven mitt across the handle to remind yourself.)
Serve at the table (remember, the pan is really hot!) with a bowl of compote, or slice into wedges and plate.
Makes 1 large pancake, enough for 2 to 3 servings.